Many of my dear readers seemed to agree: Orvieto beats out Perugia in my battle of the day trips. I’ll be doing a similar post to this about Perugia, too; but first, let’s talk about the particulars of a day trip to Orvieto from Rome.
1. We took the 9:05 train from Termini, which got us in at 10:23; we took the 4:09pm train back, which got us in at 5:16pm. Not bad. The tickets ran us about 7 euro each.
2. When you get there, the funicular is directly across from the station, and it’s 95 centesimi and good for 70 minutes. The ride up takes a few minutes tops.
3. When you get to the top, go to your immediate left, walk up the ramp and head through the ornate castle-looking archway to the community park. As soon as you enter, head to your right and walk around the guards’ catwalks for a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.
4. Come out of the garden, if you can tear yourself away, and head straight across the road to the street in front of you. That’s the Corso – and your main artery through Orvieto. Go ahead and take your time strolling up this street – it’s a real winner.
5. Up quite a ways is a street that starts on your left; it’s the via del Duomo. Follow that, and the crowds, until you reach the Duomo. To say you can’t miss would be quite an understatement.
6. Visit the church. It’s magnificent. Take a load off on the ledges across from the church – and just look at its sheer size for a few minutes.
7. Is that your tummy rumbling? Look no further than to your left, at the adorable places in the piazza:
This place looked really cute and seemed affordable. However, with the umbrellas there, you might have to sit inside to get a seat, as they always seem to be taken.
This is the place next door, and although I’ve never seen it open it does in fact exist, and was my friend Leo’s favorite place to eat in Orvieto while he was restoring the glass in the rose window of the Duomo.
Aaah, here we go. This is toward the back of the piazza. That first place is a store that sells oil, wine and other things of the sort – but also has a little counter behind which a nice little old lady will make you sandwiches and cut up some cheese for you. Two large sandwiches, a large plate of selected cheeses and two bottles of water ran us 13 euro total.
How cute is that? And nice and cool in the summer heat, too.
And next door to that is the delightful Gelateria Pasqualetti, where we got two cones of goodness for 4 euro. Boom.
The place in the very back of the piazza, at the far right of the picture above, had a delightful menu and I think a fantastic view from their back garden, and I look forward to trying it the next time I’m up there. Please note that these places require walking over teeny tiny little bridges to get to their entrances. Swoon.
8. The other place I’ve eaten there, the first time I went, was at the Trattoria del Moro, about one block back the way you came on the Corso at via San Leonardo, 7. It was nice and cool inside, and hilariously boasts free wifi. We had two antipasto, two large, delicious pastas, water and wine for 28 euro total. Here’s their menu! Ha!
9. It should be noted that under Orvieto is an entire subterranean city that is open for guided tours. I know absolutely nothing about this, but it’s supposed to be spectacular. So, you know, do that.
10. Oh, one more thing – go past the church, off to the right and down a sloping street until you hit the end – this is the view:
I can say nothing more.
We had a great day in Orvieto last June. You can also climb the clock tower. The view #10 is La Badia where we enjoyed a nice Orvieto Classico on the terrace.
In a beautiful hillside setting with wonderful views, I had a lovely vacation in Umbria. These minor towns are really wonderful, Assisi as well. I’m drawn your articles and can’t wait next one.
Awesome. Love it. Love all and every part of it. Thank you very much.
We enjoyed this stopover on way to northern Italy. Simply an enchanting place. Can give my highest recommendation for bliss.
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I am flying into Rome towards the end of September and staying in Orvieto for 2 weeks. I would be real interested in learning about the dos and donts of places to go while staying in Orvieto.
Thanks for any advice.
Orvieto offers so much more than a day trip. It is a great city in which to spend a week to slow down and get into the rhythm of Italian life. It has great restaurants, spectacular views from all sides, a wonderful Etruscan history, good shopping, and fewer tourists. Just a great place to be!
We will be there during Christmas week, will we find anything to see and do? Thanks
Absolutely! Orvieto is known for Umbria Jazz held between Christmas and New Years. Here is a web site http://ujw17.umbriajazz.com/mediacenter/Home.aspx
Since it’s Christmas and since Orvieto has a killer Cathedral there is bound to be something going on there. There are a couple places to go under the city to see Etruscan caves. There are two great wine bars at opposite ends of the city. La Champagneria is behind the cathedral, run by Velia a fantastic cook and Gianluca – http://www.champagneria-orvieto.com/ The other one is Vin Caffe 39, VIA FILIPPESCHI tel: 0763 340099 run by Stefano and Cristiano.
Thanks Bill! I will definitely be checking these out the next time I go!
this spring will be our third trip to Orvieto we stay outside town at Locanda Rosati and enjoy day trips to town exploring and dinning affordable, fun and the right pace .
Nice! Make sure to try the pork sammies at that store on the piazza where the duomo is.
Check the train schedule before you go. There was no 9:05 anymore. 8:45 and 10:45 today.
Thanks for updating us!
Just got back from 2 weeks in Orvieto…so fun to see another person’s perspective on it! I went to that first restaurant you showed the picture of, with the vine-covered entrance and had a glass of wine and watched the duomo in the late afternoon sunshine…beautiful! Also, the gelato shop in the piazza del duomo is the absolute best in Orvieto…and we tried a lot!
We went on one of the underground tours which was great. I’d recommend buying a “key to the city” which gets you in for some of the underground tours, the cathedral, the clock tower, and free use of the bus to the train station.
Miss Expatria! I took your trip to Orvieto and we did it as a family exactly as you suggested! It was an amazing day and trip and i wanted to thank you so much…..
Yay, my pleasure! And, from what you say, your pleasure as well!
Great post! I will be doing a Study-Abroad Culinary Program in Orvieto this fall (for 3 months)!! I am really excited to go and I’m glad I came across your post…I will take your tips and the tips of those who commented and try them out! Thanks!
AFTER READING YOUR WEBSITE ON ORVIETO LAST SUMMER..WE MADE IT A PRIORTIY TO VISIT ON OUR TRIP TO ITALY IN OCTOBER. ..AND IT WAS SPECTACULAR!
WE TOOK THE TRAIN FROM ROME, AND CAME UPON THIS FAIRY TALE TOWN! THE VIEWS ARE BREATHTAKING!
ONE THING TO REMEMBER IS THEY CLOSE SHOPS IN THE AFTERNOON( we forgot) .. SO BUY WHEN THEY ARE OPEN. WE HAD TO LEAVE FOR THE TRAIN BACK BEFORE THEY REOPENED AND COULD NOT GET SOME OF THE POTTERY WE LOOKED AT( WHICH WAS BEAUTIFUL).
THE PORCETTA WAS DELICIOUS AND THE CHOCOLATE SHOPS ARE FABULOUS !
WE PLAN TO RETURN TO ORVIETO AND RENT AN APARTMENT ON THE NEXT TRIP!
IT WAS HEAVEN!!
SO GLAD I CAME ACROSS YOUR WEB SITE TO LEARN ABOUT THIS ITALIAN JEWEL ON THE HILL!
My husband and I are planing to go to Rome for 10 days and would like to visit Orvito and stay a few days . We would travel by train. Is there someplace decent ot stay in the town. We would be there around March 11-14th. Any help would be appreciated
Unfortunately, I don’t have any personal recommendations for hotels. But looking on Google maps under “hotels orvieto” yields a decent bunch.
We lead trips to Orvieto twice a year. The Picolomini and Filippeschi are both nice hotels. Web sites are http://www.hotelpiccolomini.it/ and http://www.albergofilippeschi.it/
After visiting Orvieto twice on day trips, we decided to go back and make it our base for a holiday . This was Christmas 2009. We stayed in an apartment for three weeks and had a lot of fun exploring the local area as well as enjoying the Winter Jazz Festival which is held every year between Christmas and New Year. The town is manic but fun-filled at this time.
On the strength of our stay last time, we are again booked in for a Christmas in Orvieto but this time we’re staying for four weeks. With the fast train stopping at Orvieto, Rome and Florence are within easy reach and you can go up for the day or do an overnight stop in the city to have two full days.
There are so many things to see and do in the region and with a car getting around is very easy.
Highly recommended to anyone.
It’s great to really get to know a place, isn’t it?
Orvieto is our absolute favorite day trip. My wife has “adopted” the castle that you see in the last picture; turns out it’s a bed and breakfast. Before we leave, I’ll have to take her there for the weekend.
Porchetta: I swear by the pork sandwiches in one specific store…. I don’t have the name (or address), but… looking straight from the front door of the duomo, there’s a street leading directly away from you (almost dead-ends into the front door of the duomo). Follow that street one block away from the duomo, and the shop is on back right corner of the intersection (if that makes any sense). The entrance is on the same road as the “second” shop for the Wizard of Oz toy shop, but you’ll see the shop through the windows on your right as you approach the intersection. We actually drove up to Orvieto to pick up sandwiches for lunch…. to eat back in Rome. They’re THAT good.
Gelato: Gelateria Pasqualetti has the best gelato we’ve found in Italy. We haven’t had much from the southern end, but we’ve taste-tested our way across Rome (including Mondi and Alaska), and this one in Orvieto takes first place.
Nice tips! Thanks!
Hello Ex-pat Extraordinairre,
I am headed to Orvieto for a friend’s wedding this May. Might you have a suggestion on a fab place to stay? Her local contact says there aren’t many in the way of accomodations–I am pretty easy when it comes to digs as I like both luxury and bohemain off-the-beaten-path. I look forward to your suggestions!
All the best,
Hi Laurie, I don’t have any hotel tips as I’ve only gone there for the day. Sorry! But I’m sure VRBO has something adorable!
I hope that this response catches you in time. The best place to stay in my opinion is at the Grand Hotel Italia it is on via di piazza del popolo,13 and their email is firstname.lastname@example.org or just call them at 0763-342065 you can try http://www.venere.com to book a hotel or just call a single basic room is 75 Euro and the larger room which has a tub is 110 Euro I upgraded for my significant other and we just stayed there on Thursday night. Most of the staff speak english.
Or you can try a hand at italian if you want. Parla ingles? Or email is probably the best option.
Lovely hotel, I highly recommend it, very close to all sights and just off a lovely street. I am in school here in Orvieto and I live across the street in an apartment. The hotel will not disappoint. It is nice get a tub in your room if you can.
Try Zeppelin restaurant if you have time. The food is amazing the chef is a james beard award winner. The meal at Zeppelin was much better than any of the other three restaurants that my hubby and I tried. You wont be disappointed with the wild boar taglittelli or the steak fillet with a black truffle cream. I wish I had found this place earlier as I would have returned with my sweetie rather than face disappointment at the other places we had meals.
All the Best,
There are lots of good places to stay, including bed and breakfasts, if that is what you like. La Magnolia B&B is close to the Duomo on one of the main streets above a cafe owned by the same people. http://www.bblamagnolia.it. Another on the edge is B&B Al Ripa Medici http://www.ripamedici.it/ Hotel Maitani is also close to the Duomo, has a rooftop terrace that looks at the Duomo. http://www.hotelmaitani.com. Hotel Filippeschi is at the other end of town – Orvieto is not big, http://www.albergofilippeschi.it/ Another hotel at that end is the Piccolomini, http://www.hotelpiccolomini.it/
Happy hunting! Bill Steiner – Adventures in Italy
I can’t give you any review or recommendation at all, but the castle that my wife wants to stay at is: http://www.labadiahotel.it/ENG/T_home.htm
It’s located at the base of Orvieto, and can be seen in the final picture in the blog post. We haven’t stayed there, but my wife fell in love with it from the views of it.
(If you end up staying there, please let me know how it is!)
I adore the time stamp on your blog. Every expat on earth needs this on their blogs.
I am going to Rome this coming up Feb, I was wanting to take the train but i cant find anything going from the main termini in Rome straight to Orvieto. I am traveling with a 14 year old so the easiest way possible would be great… Any suggestions. thank you in advance.
There are a ton of trains that go from Rome’s Termini train station to Orvieto; not sure where you’re looking. You can buy the tickets at Termini before you leave.
Go to http://www.trenitalia.com, and on the top of the page look for the British flag and the word “English”.
I did a couple of quick searches and on Feb 11, 2012 found 8 or 10 outbound trains (Rome/Termini -> Orvieto) for E20 or less, and 8 or 10 inbound trains (Orvieto -> Rome/Termini) for the same price.
About an hour and a half each way, which is about what it takes me to drive from the north side of Rome.
Hope you enjoy your visit here!
WE WERE IN ORVIETO 2 YEARS AGO..WE LEFT FROM THE ROME TERMINI..ITS A 1HR 20 MIN TRIP NORTH . THE TRAIN STOPS RIGHT AT THE ORVIETO TRAIN STATION, WHICH IS JUST LOVELY/YOU CAN TAKE A BUS OR THE FINICULAR( LIFT) UP THE HILL TO THE TOWN.
WHAT TRAIN SCHEDULES ARE YOU CHECKING?? ITS A MAIN LINE THAT GOES THROUGH ORVIETO!!
ITS A BEAUTIFUL TOWN!! DONT MISS IT!!
Thanks for your suggestions – it made our day in Orvieto very enjoyable!
Great blog! Can’t get enough! Just wanted to add one tip for those going to Orvieto from Rome. We recently went by train from Termini and our train left from Binario 2EST, we were totally confused and didn’t find that track until after the train left. It’s a “400km” walk past Binario 1 to an outside platform- 1EST and 2EST. Leave a little extra time to find it. 🙂 Orvieto is lovely!
You know what, I have that on the Frascati post and not this one. Nice catch! And, yes, an important tip! (I call it the Harry Potter track.)
Yes I saw that on another post. A totally genius name for it!
(and sorry about the double comment, just ignore the second one please)
Grrat. I will be in Orvieto in a few weeks and this blog is most helpful. Thanks
I’m going to Orvieto in a month but will have luggage with me (we’re stopping on our way to Rome). Is there any place to store it while checking out the town for a day?
The Orvieto train station is small, so I’m not sure they would have a luggage storage place. Anyone else on this post, let me know if you know the answer?
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your blog is great
I loved Orvieto, especially the cuisine. My hubby and I travel to Italy all the time and last september on our honeymoon stopped at Orvieto. Brings back great memories. Have you been to Montefalco in Umbria? Such a darling small town with amazing restaurants.